Summer blues, Devon blue

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It’s summer even though it is not all that much reminding me of that particular fact. Nature is one thing, the calendar something else. So when it comes to summer cheese, the calender rules like it does for the Russian caretakers when they’re switching on or off the central heating. And regarding summer blues, Devon blue is definitely on the list. Even though it is a pasteurized cheese.

Ticklemore Cheese in Totnes have pasteurized their cheese for a long time, but since they originally started out using raw milk, this seems to be a truth that never dies. Even rather reliable cheese books states this is a raw milk cheese.

Blind tasting

In spite of all this I want to write about it, because it is good and because it was used “against” me in a blind tasting during the annual summer party of the wine society I am a member of. I did not come up with the right name. Ended up in England though, but with no name. Obviously it was none of the more famous. Retrospectively I could of course have flung out Devon, as I have been in contact with Ticklemore cheese regarding an other cheese they make. If I had done that the audience would have been stunned. Well, I did not.

A typical summer cheeses, as it is rather light. Not overcrowded by blue veins; sweetish taste with buttery tones.

The Sea Trout Inn

There is an other thing with Totnes. It is the home of The Sea Trout Inn. I have good memories from my very young days going to summer language school in Paignton. The school proprietor and wife took us to concerts and A Midsummer Night’s Dream performed in the park of Dartington Hall followed by a beer or two at the Sea Trout Inn. The fine thing about this inn was they also had proper beer, from the point og view of a young Norwegian. This proper beer was Stella Artois. Today my point of view has changed, so I would really appreciate some real ale. A real ale I do not even know if they have.

To drink

A light, slightly sweet white wine.

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Banon

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So you think you’ve been to Provence? Probably not. Most travelers to this region have only been to the Var or Alpes-Maritimes regions. The latter is where Nice, Cannes and St. Tropez are, to name a few hotspots. But Banon is in Provence. Provence is the back country to Var and the coast; Côte d’Azur. Up in the beautiful hills and mountainious landscape that you find a couple of hours’ drive inland from the coast.

Provence

Here we’re back to small farms, picturesque villages with steep narrow streets, bakery, butcher, and a local market for everything vegetables, cheese and other local stuff. Café where people meet for a glass of pastis and a game of boule in the shades of the old, huge trees. Far from the busy atmosphere along the coast.

From this area hails the Chèvre named Banon. Comes in both an industrial and farmstead variety and I find it natural to choose the latter. When I say hail, it is because the cheese can be traced back to Roman times which is quite a while.

Look for the special wrapping

Characteristically clothed in chestnut leaves and wrapped up with a wisp of natural raffia. Not of much practical use today, but more to make the cheese stand out from the crowd, I would believe.

Banon from Vanessa and François Masto in Simiane-la-Rotonde.
Banon from Vanessa and François Masto in Simiane-la-Rotonde.

Farmstead Banon

The Banon from Vanessa and François Masto in Simiane-la-Rotonde is of course made from raw milk as all Banon has to be, according to the AOP rules. This particular farm is also certified organic, and so is the cheese. It is not very strong in taste, but there are milder Chèvres. It might get somewhat opulent if it’s stored for a while, so I would say it is best enjoyed fresh.

It has a washed rind, using local Marc and is stored for a couple of weeks to mature. Texture is creamy, color of the paste is white. Woody and nutty taste with a gentle sign of goat in the background.

To drink

Local wine; a rosé from Provence or even a crisp white. If you want something sweeter you could try a Jurançon.

PS!

Banon is also the cheese used for the local oddity; Fromage Fort du Mont Ventoux. Not for the faint hearted, though.

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Swiss

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The Swiss are known for more than their fine watches, high mountains and a few other things such as the Red Cross and clandestine bank accounts. Well the latter seems to be coming to an end. Their cheese stand as strong as ever. Led by a few classics of course, but with quite a few not so known close behind and of no lesser quality.

Swiss = Quality

Switzerland is precision and quality whether it’s about cheese or anything else. So anything Swiss cheese you can trust it is hand made and of the highest quality. It is of course all the mountain cheeses such as Gruyère, Emmentaler, Appenzeller, L’Etivaz and Raclette. But right behind you can find Bündner Bergkäse from the east of Switzerland; Sbrinz from right in the middle; Tessiner Alpkäse from the south east; Tomme Vaudoise, a fine bloomy rind cheese from the south west; Tête de Moine and Vacherin Mont-d’Or from the Swiss side of the Jura. And finally Berner Alp- and Hobelkäse, Vacherin Fribourgeois and many more. Excellent cheeses all of them. And if you have not had them all, well, then you can look forward to many tasteful moments.

Tête-de-Moine (the monk's head), a fine and gentle cheese from the Swiss Jura.
Tête-de-Moine (the monk’s head), a fine and gentle cheese from the Swiss Jura.

Mountain cheeses

Many of these are typical semi firm to firm mountain cheeses, so perhaps you could hold against them they lack variety. But it is not true. They have their blues and they have their soft. Could be they have their Chèvres as well, but that I would not know.

I have tasted quite a few, but not all. One of those that is included in the not tasted yet is the Sbrinz. There is an anecdote about this cheese saying that the Italians crossed the Alps to buy this very special cheese. Finally they got so tired of crossing the mountains, especially during wintertime, that they sat down to copy it. The result being the much more famous Parmagiano Reggiano. That is how it is sometimes, the copy over shadows the original. If it’s a true story or not, I do not know, but the Swiss take great pleasure in telling it.

To drink

White wine mostly. If you think local white, I would suggest Valais. But then you have excellent wine right across the French border as well. Jura is very close, Burgundy is not that far away either, and they pair extremely well.

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Abondance

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Abondance, this French semi firm favorite of mine. Mountain cheese from the northern part of the Haute-Savoie region, bordering Switzerland. Well, there are two Savoies; Haute-Savoie and Savoie. Upper Savoie and Savoie in other words. Perhaps the most beautiful area of all France, attractive both summer and winter, but definitely most famous for its winter attractions.

Abondance from the Haute-Savoie region of France. Photo: Paolo Rey
Abondance from the Haute-Savoie region of France. Photo: Paolo Rey

Travel the Savoie region

To get around and experience their array of excellent cheese, food and wine in general, summer is the best time of year, though. Look to the right for some more information about Abondance and the region.

A bit of history

The cheese takes it name from the valley and town of the same name. Nothing exceptional in that. In fact very common.
It has been around for quite a while and as is so often the case, it was local monks that started off the whole thing. They worked with the local farmers to create this magnificent cheese. In 1381, Abondance cheese was served up to the papal conclave that met in Avignon to elect the new Pope. This was the moment at which Abondance cheese gained its reputation for excellence which it has maintained ever since. But it took till 1990 before it earned its AOC/PDO. Well deserved, if you ask me.

Farmstead and fruitière

As the yearly output is only about 2400 tons this is not a cheese for the big industrial dairies. Most of the cheese is actually produced on farms, carries a green label, but there a some small artisanal dairies as well, making the cheese, oftentimes called fruitière. These have a red label. All Abondance cheese is hand made, though.

Three breeds

There are just three breeds of cattle that are allowed to deliver the milk for the Abondance cheese. Tarine, or Tarentaise if you like; Montbèliarde and of course Abondance. So Abondance is the name of a cheese, a valley, a town and a cattle breed.

During the summer many of the farms take their cattle to graze in the high mountain pastures, a belt of grassland that winds its way through the mountains. Actually up to almost 1900 meters above sea level.

Abondance facts

Made by raw whole cow milk from the breeds mentioned above. This is a semi firm cheese. Matured for a minimum of 100 days in caves and on spruce planks.
What is so typical for an Abondance is the concave sides of the wheel. A complete wheel weighs 8 to 12 kilos, by the way, so in alpine terms this is a small cheese.

Texture is semi firm with a few small scattered holes and melting with a slightly bitter but fruity flavor; nuts. The color of the rind is amber.

To drink

Local Savoie white wines of course. Chablis. Light and fruity reds such as Beaujolais, but also elegant white Burgundies. You can even try the neighbouring Vin Jaune from the Jura. If you are not familiar with this wine, equip yourself with a back-up.

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