The first grapes in South Africa were planted in the 1650s. They were imported from France, Germany and Spain. It was a Dutchman named Jan van Riebeeck who spearheaded the experiment to find out if grapevines would thrive in South Africa. He probably had no big plans for South African wine, but was very pleased when he was able to harvest and make wine for the first time in 1659. However, he traveled on to Indonesia, so it was Simon van der Steel who really took on the task of developing the Cape Province into an agricultural area including viticulture. It was not until Stellenbosch, which is named after him, that a group of Huguenots who had fled to South Africa because of persecution in France, began to grow wine in the area we know as Franschhoek – the French Corner – and quickly became leaders. Simon van der Steel was commander of the Cape Province from 1679 and governor from 1791 until he retired in 1799. For his work he was rewarded with 7700 acres of land in the Constantia Valley. Here he planted vines in the area we know today as Constantia with the vineyards Groot and Klein Constantia. But it was his son who really accelerated wine production at the end of the 18th century. The way he did it was both illegal and corrupt. The farm was called Vergelegen and still exists today, although not in the same size as back then. That was a bit of a problem. He was deposed and sent back home to the Netherlands. However, wine growing was underway, and the rest is history.
South Africa as a wine country as we know it today is, however, quite young. It was only in the 1990s, after the end of apartheid and the opening up of foreign markets, that things really took off and we have a modern wine country with a mix of large producers, cooperatives and smaller individual vineyards that keep the craft alive. A large part of South Africa’s cultivated grapes also go into the production of cheap bulk wine.
This is probably a bit unsubtle, but my focus is more on the new areas and not so much on the old ones. The old areas in my world are Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Constantia, although these areas also have young vineyards and a lot of good wine is made there. For my part, I focus more on Elgin and Hemel en Aarde on the south side of Cape Town and Swartland, as well as the areas north up to the Olifants River north of Cape Town. So this is by no means absolute.
In South Africa, it is not like in France, for example, that only specific grapes are grown in a given area. You can grow the grapes you want anywhere. Most wineries where both wine is grown and made have therefore spent a lot of time analyzing the soil to find out what kind of grapes are best suited to growing there. However, a wine must be defined where it comes from, and there is a system when it comes to geography, from “geographical unit” down to “single vineyard”. South African wines also have a Wine of Origin Seal with a code that can give you a lot of information about that particular wine.
In South Africa, you are welcome to drop in for wine tasting every day, with a few exceptions. Some farms do not accept visits, it should be said, others require reservations, but these are the exceptions. Weekends and holidays are also busy days for vineyard visits and tastings. You have to pay for wine tasting. If you drive a car, SPIT! During the South African summer, there are also many wineries that organize everything from barbecue parties, braai, to concerts, art exhibitions, auctions and whatever else, where you can sign up. Several farms also have accommodation options attached to the winery.
Some favourites:
AA Badenhorst
Badenhorst Family Wines is located on Kalmoesfontein farm in Swartland. 1800 hectares of so-called bush vines in an area of the Paardeberg mountains. The farm is owned by nephews Hein and Adi Badenhorst, who both grew up in the Constantia Valley when their grandfather was a farm manager for 46 years on the little-known Groot Constantia. They bought a disused farm of 600 hectares in Swartland in 2008. The farm buildings had not been used since the 1930s. Later the area was tripled. Adi (Andre Adriaan) is the front man. Adi made his first wine at the age of 13 when he was allowed to do so by the winemaker at the Buitenverwachting winery, which is also beautifully located in the Constantia Valley. After completing his oenology training, he worked in France (Ch. Angelus and with Alain Graillot in the Rhône) and New Zealand, and was winemaker at Rustenberg in Stellenbosch for nine years
If you have the opportunity to visit the farm, I recommend it. If so, also book lunch, it was simple but fantastic. I can’t guarantee that you will meet Adi himself, but I did and it was an incredible wine tasting with a man who is very skilled and knowledgeable, and has a relaxed relationship with the wine he makes. After all, it’s just wine, drink it. There’s a kind of hippie aura about the whole place. Very laid back. They also make Caperitif and a very good olive oil from the Karoo area. Adi is also a big fan of Sherry, and maybe that’s why they have planted Palomino on the farm. Otherwise, the assortment is characterized by Chenin blanc and Rhone grapes, both white and red.
The most famous is probably the Secateur series (Secateur is simply a type of garden shears used in the vineyard to prune the vines). These are good budget wines, both red and white.
It is probably the level above that really stands out.
Alheit
Alheit is a very young winery, established in 2010 by Chris and Suzaan Alheit. They met at the university in Stellenbosch, and after finishing their studies they traveled around the world to learn more about wine, and then returned to South Africa with a goal and to make very South African wine. The winery, Hemelrand farm, is located far up in the Hemel en Aarde valley, Hemel en Aarde Ridge, but they source grapes from a large area, actually as far north as Clanwilliam in the Olifants River and have eight different vineyards in addition to Hemelrand farm. Hemel en Aarde is a typical area for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but here Alheit is an exception. The wine from the farm itself is a field blend, which contains Chardonnay, but also Roussanne, Verdelho, Chenin blanc and Muscat Blanc. Another special thing about Alheit is that they only make white wines and most of them are Chenin blanc. Most of the grapes that go into their wines are grown by independent farmers around the Western Cape, and in wine terms, that area is large. The farmers pride themselves on delivering first-class grape material and work in close collaboration with “the Alheits”.
Alheit Herafter Here 2023
100% Chenin blanc from young vines from a relatively wide area; with parcels near Malemesbury in Swartland, Piekenierskloof in Citrusdal, the Bottelary in northern Stellenbosch and Polkadraai in Stellenbosch, as well as some wine from old parcels/vines in Paardeberg (Swartland) and Tygerberg in northern Cape Town. This is a bit typical for Alheit, there are few of their wines that are single-vineyard wines, but they do exist. The grapes were picked early in the morning, which is quite common in South Africa due to the heat during the day, sorted in the vineyard. The whole bunches of grapes are pressed. No addition to the raw juice, natural fermentation (wild yeast) in old barrels of varying sizes. Fermentation took place for about two months. The wine was then kept on the lees for 12 months, and then rested in tanks over fine lees without clarification for another six months before bottling. Sulphite added just before bottling. Very simple and careful winemaking according to the winemaker himself. Aromas of yellow fruit and herbs. Rich in flavor for a Chenin blanc, citrus and yellow apple.
Alheit Hemelrand Vine Garden 2023
While Alheit sources most of its wines from a large area, this is a so-called field blend from the “home vineyard”, that is, from the farm itself, which is located at the top of the Hemel en Aarde valley, which is called Hemel en Aarde Ridge. As mentioned above, they have planted a number of different grape varieties here and the wine is a blend of these grapes. It can vary from year to year in relation to how much fruit the individual plants produce. As far as I know, all the different grape vines are planted together.
Elgin Vintners
Elgin Vintners was formed when six apple farmers joined forces to establish a vineyard as part of their properties. Elgin is basically an area for growing apples. When apple exports were deregulated, it led to a shift from one to many exporters, which in turn led to a collapse in prices. Now the market has become more orderly, but more and more vineyards have appeared in the area, so one can assume that it is to secure income and not just depend on apple cultivation.
Elgin Vintners has been kind of in the middle of the road when it comes to quality, but a few years ago Gus Dale came in as responsible for running the vineyard. He is a Briton with extensive experience from France. He describes himself as an outstanding “viticulturist”, meaning responsible for growing the grapes. Then you don’t have to be such an exceptional winemaker, because most of it is done yourself in the cellar. It is said with a touch of British understatement, but it is difficult to make good wines from poor grape material. Whatever the case, the quality has improved since he came to the farm. So it is that Norway is the largest market for Elgin Vintners. When I visited the farm we were very well received. It is a beautiful farm with a fantastic garden, but that is the case at most vineyards in South Africa.
Elgin Vintners Chardonnay 2023
Gabriëlskloof
Located beautifully in Bot River, which is a bit inland east of Elgin, a very short detour from the main road N2/R43. The vineyard also has a very good restaurant called Farro – recommended. The vineyard is run by the couple Nicoline and Peter-Allan Finlayson. She is the daughter of the original owner who has now sold half of the company to the Norwegian importer Autentic
Several different wines are made at Gabriëlskloof, partly from grapes from their own vineyards and partly from purchased grapes. Both Gabriëlskloof and Crystallum are made on the farm. The latter is Peter-Allan Finlayson’s own brand. Incidentally, there is a young married couple who are winemakers, she makes the Gabriëlskloof wines and he makes the Crystallum wines. At Gabriëlskloof, like most other vineyards, they are concerned with sustainability, both for people, animals and the soil, as well as actively contributing in various ways to the local environment. The vineyard was established in 2001 and was previously a farm where rapeseed was grown.
Hamilton Russel
Hamilton Russel was established by Tim Hamilton Russel in 1975 in the Hemel en Aarde valley just behind Hermanus south of Cape Town, as the first vineyard there. The conditions here are very good for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and much of what is grown in the valley is precisely these two varieties. The first time I tasted Hamilton Russel was at the restaurant The grill at 120 in Johannesburg, and it was their Pinot Noir. Not a particularly fancy restaurant, but good food and drink. The wines are available in Norway, but sell out relatively quickly. Hamilton Russel is the premium wines, but they also have two other series Ashbourne and Southern Right which are two separate parcels. Hamilton Russel is established as an estate and can only make wines from grapes from the Hamilton Russel vineyard. As far as I know, the vineyards are those closest to the sea where the farm and fields are located right behind Hermanus
Today, the farm is owned and operated by the founder’s son Anthony Hamilton Russel and his wife Olive. Hamilton Russel also makes wine in Oregon, USA.
Hamilton Russel Chardonnay 2023
Not a cheap wine, but very good. Now it is sold out with the exception of a few bottles in Bergen. We will have to wait for the 2024 vintage.
Hamilton Russel Pinot Noir 2023
I drank the 2018 on New Year’s Eve and it was extremely balanced, great fruit and very relaxed tannins. A pure pleasure to drink. It was seven years old, so a wine you can easily leave for a few years if you have a suitable cellar.
Newton Johnson
Located in Upper Hemel en Aarde with beautiful views over the valley down to the sea and Hermanus. This is a family farm in the true sense of the word, established in the mid-nineties by Dave and Felicity, where the founders’ two sons are now the operators, one, Gordon, is the winemaker with his wife Nadia, and Bevan is responsible for the commercial operation. Perhaps not as well known as some of the other wineries
Minimalist Wines
Founded not so many years ago by Sam Lambson, who is one of South Africa’s young, up-and-coming winemakers. Graduated in oenology from the University of Stellenbosch and then worked as an “intern” at several well-known winemakers in South Africa. As far as I know, they don’t have their own grapes, but buy from farmers who are closely monitored. They get grapes from Agulhas in the southeast to Stellenbosch in the northwest and Elgin in the middle. However, this is probably not static. The basis for their wines is the Syrah grape, but then other varieties appear from time to time, such as Minimalist Experimental Grenache Noir where the grapes come from the Bot river.
A cool thing about Minimalist wines is that the “vineyard” is located in the middle of Cape Town, and you can go there to taste/buy wine. 105 Hope street is the address.
Sadie Family Wines
There is a kind of mystery about this winery. Difficult to be admitted for a visit, difficult to become a customer, even the waiting list to buy wine is closed. Located in the Swartland and perhaps making South Africa’s best wines?
Sakkie Mouton
Izak Mouton was born in 1992 and is considered one of the most talented winemakers in South Africa in recent decades. He was raised on a vineyard on the west coast a few kilometers from Vredendal, northwest of Cape Town. He has his oenology education from Elsenburg Agricultural College outside Stellenbosch. After graduating, he spent five years traveling around the world to find his place in the world of wine. It brought him back to where he started, he had to do his part to put South Africa’s west coast on the wine map, which he has so emphatically managed. Sakkie released his first wine as late as 2018 and immediately received a lot of attention in the wine community. It may seem like he has become everyone’s favorite MW. The wines are sold locally and exported in very small quantities, Norway is one of the few countries where the wines are actually available. At least for now.
Sakkie Mouton Revenge of the Crayfish 2023
A wonderfully sharp, good acidity, and balanced Chenin blanc with hints of yellow apples, salt, seaweed and some tropical fruit (lime, apricot, nectarine) that comes from an area quite far north on the west coast of South Africa, Koekenaap. Some claim that this may be South Africa’s best Chenin blanc, but I haven’t tasted them all, not even close, so I won’t comment on that. But it’s good, very good.
Saurwein wines
Jessica Saurwein is a young winemaker who hails from Austria. She has an oenology degree from the University of Stellenbosch and worked in the wine industry on the sales and marketing side before taking the step into her own production in 2015. In other words, it is a young winery. While she worked in sales, she also worked on winemaking both in South Africa and abroad during each harvest. From 2015 to 2017, she worked part-time with her own winemaking and from 2017 full-time. Saurwein Wines does not have its own vineyard as such yet, but the farm in Stanford will be planted with Pinot Noir and a cellar will be built. Now the grapes are bought in and the wine is made in rented premises. Saurwein Wines makes wine from only two grape types, Riesling, which is perhaps not so unnatural since the family originally comes from Austria, and Pinot Noir. They have three wines, one Riesling and two Pinot Noir, OM and NOM – Yes, that’s what they’re called. The Riesling is called CHI by the way. The grapes come from four different vineyards. Riesling from Elgin and Hemel en Aarde respectively. NOM Pinot Noir gets its grapes from an area called Elandskloof (600 – 850 m above sea level) and OM Pinot Noir from Hemel en Aarde Ridge, that is, higher up in the Hemel en Aarde valley.
Sauerwein Om Pinot Noir 2021
Very light color and great red berry aroma. Very light, can seem a little anemic when you pour it into the glass, actually looks quite flimsy. But looks are deceiving, it draws you in with great fruit in the mouth, full and rich with a long taste. Nice acidity and round tannins. A real hidden gem.
Both OM om NOM Pinot Noir are available at Vinmonopolet in the 22nd and 23rd vintages for 380 kroner for the 2022 vintage and 460 for the 2023 vintage. CHI Riesling is available in the 2024 vintage for 300 kroner a bottle.