It turned out to be two hectic days in Bra. But up until I arrived in Bra, it was a long and tiresome journey that ended well in spite of some Italian lack of structure along the route. I flew in to Turin and must admit it’s not the center of the world. There is a bus service from the airport to the city center, but it also serves as a local buss service, but actually did call on the train station where my train to Alba was parting from. I don’t speak Italian and the Italians don’t speak English; it’s not much more you can do other than fold your hands and hope for the best. Arrived in Alba in good shape and walked the ten minutes it took to my Bed and Breakfast where my arrival came as nothing less than a surprise. But I had my confirmation, so who had to move out, I do not know, but I moved in. Thee was a wait while everything was arranged, during which I was cordially served both wine and a bite. One happy family, but again, no English spoken. Not that I expect everybody to speak English just because I happen to speak it, but I find it somewhat practical, after all. Douce Maison is absolutely recommended if you are happy with a fair standard, clean rooms and a central location across the street from the main church in Alba; ready to be woken up by the church bells at 7 am every morning.
I cannot say the excellent cheese shop Fromagerie here in Oslo is famous for their Italian cheese. But his week they presented a completely unknown alpine variety, for me at least. Toma di Bettelmatt comes from Val d’Ossola, in the province of Verbano Cusio Ossola, as far north in Piedmont as you can get and more or less on the Swiss border. Sort of a flap cutting into Switzerland north west of Lake Maggiore. Here, at an altitude of about 6500 ft they make cheese (of course they make cheese). Alpine cheese. In small chalets, during a short summer season.
Highly sought after as they are, especially the Toma di Bettelmatt, which also means there a many other cheeses made in the same style in the Val d’Ossola area, they are brought to the market by helicopter nowadays. It used to be by mules, but in these times of instant gratification none has time to wait for the mules vinding their way down to the plains.
Long traditions
In this area at the top of Piedmont, they have long standing traditions for making cheese during the summer. The area, even at this altitude has wide, sheltered pastures where the animals can graze. The best conditions are in Val Formazza, at the end of the road and close to the Swiss border. That’s where Toma di Bettelmatt, the most famous of all the alpine summer cheeses made in the valleys, hails from. And this “business” they’ve carried out for centuries, and only in 2017 did this chees land on my table. So what have I been up to? Well, I cannot know about all cheeses out there, but I am improving, one cheese at the time. Fra Google maps
What is it with Toma di Bettelmatt?
It is an alpine cheese made only durting a very short summer season. matured for about 60 days, so the piece I have is one of the first made this season. Since it’s a chalet cheese made at most of the chalets in the area, there are of course variations, so no Toma di Bettelmatt is made equal. Being it size or texture. There has been an issue with counterfeits, so these days the rind has a burned stamp on top of it. Even though the Toma di Bettelmatt is regarded the best, there are similar excellent cheese from Toggia, Kastel, Sangiatto, Lago Vannino, Alpe Forno and Poiala as well. The cheese has a very compact texture, with a few scattered eyes, but that may also vary. Typically cow’s milk yellow, even though it looks somewhat lighter in the picture below. Then of course its reputation also has something to do with availablity. As mentioned, relatively few cheeses are made every season. Toma di Bettelmatt from quite north in Piedmont.
The taste?
I must admit I had expected more fruit, like most other alpine cheese. The taste is marked and rustic. No trace of nuts as in the Swiss varieties. Then the nuttines is something developing over time, and this is a fairly fresh cheese. But if you fancy a barnyardy and earthy taste and aroma, well then this is the cheese for you. A little bit dry in your mouth. So I do not fancy it? yes I do, it was just different from what I had expected. Serve it together with some aromatic honey and rye bread. Perhaps a slice of pear as well.
To drink
This is a cheese for the red wine lovers. Pairs well with a full bodied Barolo.
In Bethelehem, CT, set in beautiful surroundings, you’ll find the Benedictine convent Abbey of Regina Laudis. 450 acres of farmland and forests tucked away in Litchfield county. Amazing. It was of course cheese that brought me to Sister Noella and the Abbey, or us as I took my whole family along. A cheese and a dairy that had completely missed my radar. Not that I know of every farmstead cheese maker in the world, far from it, and especially not in Connecticut, hardly regarded as one of the cheese making states in the US. Nothing like Wisconsin and Vermont. In addition, they only make about six wheels of cheese per week, of raw milk from four cows. Hand milked of course. Barely for sale either; at least you have to go there to buy it. Not on a Wednesday, though. There is, however, one particular and important reason Sister Noella appeared on my screen. Well, they told me at Cato Corner Farm I should visit her, but more importantly a Facebook post about Sister Noella and her doctoral work on microorganisms, Geotrichum Candidum in particular. If I’d been part of the inner circle of world cheese making, I would have long since known about her. She’s a capacity in her field. Never too late, though, to become acquainted with interesting people. We had an awesome hour together in the cellar (and the Church on the hill). We arrived very unannounced, so it was just about we got to meet with her. Glad she managed to squeeze us in. Sister Noella at Abbey of Regina Laudis, Connecticut
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I was really pleased when I was invited to join Cato Corner Farm in making cheese Thursday July 6th. Quite unexpected, but all the more delightful. It was just randomly I met Mark Gillman as he came by the cheese shop. We talked about cheese and I told him I had been invited to make cheese at Vulto Creamery, but due to very sad circumstances that was naturally cancelled. So Mark invited me straight away to come and make cheese with him.
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