Cheese

The Hidden Cheese Heaven

It could of course just be me. Even though I don’t think so. I am above average interested in cheese and was not aware of the hidden cheese heaven Portugal is. Know they make cheese here, yes, but not so much, and not that so much is from raw milk.

Hail the supermarkets

The supermarkets is full of regional raw milk cheese. Many artisan, though not all. A majority from ewe’s milk and some from cow. Goat is more rare, mostly pasteurized, even though I managed to find one raw. But there are a few blends blends with goat milk.
Ostedisk Portugal
Some of the ewe milk cheese is hard, some is firm to semi firm and quite a few are spoonable.

Portuguese spoonable ewe's milk cheese
Portuguese spoonable ewe’s milk cheese

Ewe’s milk cheese in majority

Portugal seems to be the country where production of ewe’s milk cheese is most widespread. Comes in different sizes, but they’re all rounds. Unless they are treated with oil and paprika powder the rinds are generally of beige color. Hard and non-edible. I do not know if it is a washed rind, it might seem so, but the texture is a bit plasticky.

It is hard to know if the cheese is farmstead, artisanal, cooperative or industrial. Partly because of the language of course, I do not speak portuguese, but it also seems like most of the cheese is consumed locally and therefore there is not so much need for any international sites. I need to do some more research in other words.

The best cow’s milk cheese comes from the Azores

So they make traditional firm cow’s milk cheese as well. And the best comes from the islands, which in this case is the Azores. Quite far into the Atlantic, west of Portugal. Queijo São Jorge DOP is the most famous. Comes in at least two versions; four and seven months of maturity. An alternative is the Topo Queijo curado, also from raw cow’s milk, but without the DOP certification.
I’ll come back to the actual tasting, later.

The hidden cheese heaven

Having explored the portuguese cheese marked for a good week or so, I am very positively surprised and have no doubt this is the hidden cheese heaven. So much excellent cheese, and so readily available.

To drink

I find it natural to drink a white to these cheeses, though not Vinho Verde as they are too crisp, but Duoro and Alentejo whites will work very well. Since we’re in Portugal, Port is a good choice as well. Works well with most cheese.

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Heading for Portugal

We’re heading to Portugal for a few days. And I am going to explore Portuguese cheese. They have quite a few good ones, a lot with DOP (or AOP) protection. I found an article about Portuguese cheese, so I am a bit informed, but I also think I have to do my own field research. Have a few addresses to some good shops in Lisbon especially, but hoping to find something outside of the capital as well.

We’re starting off in Lisbon and ending up there before we’re heading home. In between, a little bit of this and a little bit of that.

Portugal = Good food

Portugal is a food country. Like Spain food is rustic, not so complicated. Good food and good wine. As simple as that. A cup of coffee and an aguardente. Long lunches.

Bacalhau

Apart from the cheese I am particularly looking forward to having wet salted cod, bacalhau, prepared in numerous ways. They are masters at it. If you’ve never had it, this is the place to try it (in addition to Brazil). It is said that Portuguese men are able to prepare a different dish of Bacalhau for every day of the year. That’s 365 different recipes. Quite a few more than I know.

But I will keep you informed, bring my camera and snap a few fine shots to share with you.
I’ve been to quite a few places around the world, but I’ve never been to Portugal before. Shame really. So if you have any tips on what to do, where, I am more than happy if you share.

To drink

White from the Vinho Verde and others worth exploring, reds from the Duoro and Dao and other local varieties. Port of course. There is a lot of good wine in Portugal at a reasonable price.

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Chèvre frais

I was actually on the look out for some farmstead Norwegian cheese today, but the selection was rather poor. A single fresh chèvre caught my eye, though. Chèvre frais in French. Cornilly from the Berry province in the Loire.

Chèvre Frais

A chèvre frais is a very fresh cheese, so fresh there is no rind at all. And being it from goat or sheep’s milk it is chalk white as well. A chèvre is of course made from goat’s milk.

They are very special these fresh cheeses. Special in the sense that acidity is high. The taste has not so much more to offer but the fresh lactic acidity. Not much more to expect either from a cheese that has not been matured at all. So if you enjoy freshness and acidity, this is a cheese for you. If not, go for something a little more mature. A lot happens to a chèvre in the course of a few weeks.

Cornilly frais
Cornilly frais

From raw goat’s milk

From raw milk this one. A bit crumbly, but with a very creamy mouth feeling. Seems like there is a pasteurized version as well. It is an assumption since so many American web shops offer it to their customers. There is no way this cheese will be admitted into the US unpasteurized. It’s nothing near the 60 days. Not even ordinary chèvre comes near that limit.

To drink

Chèvre naturally calls for a Sancerre or some other Sauvignon blanc from the Loire. As this is a chèvre frais, I think I will move westvard along the Loire to Vouvray. The Chenin blanc grape gives more sweetness in the wine which will nicely balance the acidity of the cheese.

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Summer blues, Devon blue

It’s summer even though it is not all that much reminding me of that particular fact. Nature is one thing, the calendar something else. So when it comes to summer cheese, the calender rules like it does for the Russian caretakers when they’re switching on or off the central heating. And regarding summer blues, Devon blue is definitely on the list. Even though it is a pasteurized cheese.

Ticklemore Cheese in Totnes have pasteurized their cheese for a long time, but since they originally started out using raw milk, this seems to be a truth that never dies. Even rather reliable cheese books states this is a raw milk cheese.

Blind tasting

In spite of all this I want to write about it, because it is good and because it was used “against” me in a blind tasting during the annual summer party of the wine society I am a member of. I did not come up with the right name. Ended up in England though, but with no name. Obviously it was none of the more famous. Retrospectively I could of course have flung out Devon, as I have been in contact with Ticklemore cheese regarding an other cheese they make. If I had done that the audience would have been stunned. Well, I did not.

A typical summer cheeses, as it is rather light. Not overcrowded by blue veins; sweetish taste with buttery tones.

The Sea Trout Inn

There is an other thing with Totnes. It is the home of The Sea Trout Inn. I have good memories from my very young days going to summer language school in Paignton. The school proprietor and wife took us to concerts and A Midsummer Night’s Dream performed in the park of Dartington Hall followed by a beer or two at the Sea Trout Inn. The fine thing about this inn was they also had proper beer, from the point og view of a young Norwegian. This proper beer was Stella Artois. Today my point of view has changed, so I would really appreciate some real ale. A real ale I do not even know if they have.

To drink

A light, slightly sweet white wine.

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